Restaurants / Openings

Rice Village’s New Italian Cafe Transforms Into a Hidden Restaurant at Night

Osteria di Mercato Is Full Of Surprises

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The people who brought that charming Italian specialty food market and cafe Mercato and Company to Houston have opened the intimate Osteria di Mercato in West University’s Rice Village.

Osteria di Mercato is a grab-and-go gourmet by day with Italian cold cuts, olives, sauces, tinned fish, cheese, organic chocolates, artisanal flatbreads, cookies, breads, gelato and more. That more includes panini, salad, or pasta to go (along with an espresso to push you through any mid-day lag). Nightly, starting at 5:30 pm, dinner is then served at Osteria di Mercato. But be sure to reserve a table (via Resy), as this tiny spot has just 30 seats.

Osteria di Mercato’s Executive Chef Mauricio Alvarado. General Manager and Sommelier Marco Thompson
Osteria di Mercato’s executive chef (left) Mauricio Alvarado beside general manager and sommelier, Marco Thompson are not into food trends.

Executive chef Mauricio Alvarado mans the range. With an impressive CV that starts when he was all of 16 years ago, beginning his luminous career with Tony Vallone at Tony’s and Vallone’s Steakhouse before he joined the opening team of Aaron Bludorn’s eponymous Houston restaurant. Alvarado relocated to California to complete stages in Michelin-starred restaurants such as The French Laundry, Quince, Manresa and Benu before moving on to Cyrus 2.0 and Dawn Ranch. Then after having worked at some of the best restaurant in the world, he headed back home to Houston. And now Osteria di Mercato.

This new neighborhood haunt proffers its interpretation of classic Italian cuisine. Never trend-driven, the food is sourced with local, seasonal ingredients. You’ll find antipasti like arancini allo zafferano ($14), the saffron-spiced fried risotto balls and tonno crudo ($27), otoro tuna napped with a passion fruit fermented chili sauce.

Osteria di Mercato Hanger steak au poivre sauce
The bistecca al pepe nero, an 8-ounce koji-cured hanger steak au poivre with polenta fritta ($52) is part of Osteria di Mercato’s menu.

I’ve heard raves over the rigatoni ($28) tossed with a white bolognese, while the fettuccine with braised rabbit with sofrito and pickled apricots ($27) piques my appetite, along with the Ora king salmon poached in a citrus-tinged broth with spinach and turnips ($34).

Did I mention the chocolate Basque cheesecake ($20)? It’s adorned with a crème anglaise studded with Texas-grown red grapefruit segments.

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Italian wine buyers, you’re in good hands, specifically those of general manager Marco Thompson, an award-winning sommelier, known for his deep wine knowledge. Houston-born and bred in Italy, Thompson eanred Michelin Guide Toronto Sommelier of the Year honors in 2023 for his work at Michelin-starred Osteria Giulia restaurant in Toronto.

Osteria di Mercato is located at in Rice Village. The market is open Sundays through Wednesdays from 7 am to 7 pm, and Thursdays through Saturdays from 7 am to 9 pm. The restaurant is open 5:30 pm to 9 pm Tuesdays through Saturdays.

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