Great Houston Eats
Flea-Market Quesadillas are a Hidden Jewel
By James Brock //
I finally made it to Sunny Flea Market on Airline — a crazy, lively jumble of a place full of life and music and some of the best blue-corn quesadillas I have ever had. (J.C. Reid, a great friend of mine, took me there, so he is to blame when I make it a weekly destination.) The blue-corn tortillas arefresh off of the grill and available filled with a wide variety of things, from squash and pumpkin to corn and cheese and nopales and chicharrónes.
We shared three or four quesadillas, and I homed in on the one made with huitlacoche and corn and cheese. Garnished with a bit of cilantro-heavy salsa verde, this quesadilla was sublime, a thing of beauty. Hot, rich, slightly tangy, full of fresh corn and the corn smut that is oh so good — and good for you.
Fonda las Chenchas is the name of the source of these quesadillas, and it’s a family affair. Mother, sister and brother were behind the counter (which is open every weekend and on Fridays, 9 am to 1 pm), and an uncle is responsible for bringing in the blue-corn flour (the Hopis knew a great thing when they saw it). The level of enthusiasm and hospitality they showed was refreshing and infectious.
We enjoyed siting there in the hot sun, eating the food and drinking horchata. I think you will feel the same when you visit this place.
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