This White-Tablecloth Restaurant Proves It’s Worth Revisiting in Dallas

On a recent excursion to Salum — an upscale Dallas staple that sits unassuming in a shopping strip on the corner of Fitzhugh and Cole — I enjoyed what was possibly one of the most indulgent meals I’ve had in quite some time.

As it prepares to celebrate its 11th year in business this September, the white-tablecloth restaurant owned by chef Abraham Salum, who has worked in kitchens in France, Belgium, and Mexico, rolled out a “flavors of summer” menu featuring three courses, desserts, and free-flowing wine to accompany each decadent portion.

There were many standouts, from the Texas goat cheese appetizer (roasted elephant garlic and EVOO) and pan-roasted grouper (potato fennel casserole, Italian salsa verde) to the grilled buffalo rib eye (friend chipotle sweet potatoes, corn, local bean succotash with epazote) and fried Windy Meadows chicken. This was my personal favorite — Texas peaches cooked in 9 Banded Texas Whiskey atop savory chicken, plus a side of garlic green beans. So delicious.

(Insider scoop: Salum introduces new dishes every month.)

As for the wine, Salum sources its selections from across the globe, from California to Australia and New Zealand, Europe and South America. Among the offerings I enjoyed: a 2013 pinot noir from Anthill Farms Winery, and a 2013 rosé from Domaine Pierre Usseglio.

Salum is open for lunch Monday to Friday, 11 am to 2:30 pm, and dinner Monday to Saturday, 6 to 10:30 pm.

Salum, 4152 Cole Ave., 214.252.9604.