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Chef Peja Krstic Reflects on 10 Years of Mot Hai Ba, and the Future of the Tiny Lakewood Favorite

Garlic Noodles Forever

BY // 04.04.23

In 2013, a Vietnamese restaurant opened in a tiny, unassuming spot in Lakewood, where it began to build a loyal following under co-owners Jeana Johnson and Colleen O’Hare. The two brought on Serbian-born chef Peja Krstic to run the Mot Hai Ba kitchen, who, in 2015, ultimately ended up taking ownership of the popular spot. Now, Krstic and his team are celebrating 10 years in business on Lewis Street, and catching up with PaperCity to reflect on the past decade.

Peja Krstic
Mot Hai Ba chef Peja Krstic. (Courtesy of Mot Hai Ba)

On the Success of Mot Hai Ba

For Krstic, it’s all about the team.”We’ve had our staff for a long time,” he tells PaperCity. He also gives credit to former general manager Trudy Carlson, who after eight years at MHB, recently left to relocate to New Orleans. “Everyone knew her and she built relationships with guests who came in.”

Eschewing the unnecessary frills of fine dining, Mot Hai Ba has kept a consistent focus on cultivating the relationships between the staff and the guests, in addition to delivering on the menu, which has evolved from traditional Vietnamese to a more global mix of flavors with French and Asian influences under Krstic’s guidance.

Mot Hai Ba’s dishes also change often — though there are a few constants, like the crispy Vietnamese rice cake and shaking beef. Unexpected flavor combinations are definitely a reason to come back and try new things.

But there’s also a much more literal secret ingredient at Mot Hai Ba: Vietnamese nước chấm, or “Flava” as it’s known in the Lakewood kitchen. Made with water, sugar, lime juice, and fish sauce, Krstic uses it on everything.

 

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Mot Hai Ba
The bar at Mot Hai Ba offers craft cocktails, wine, and beer. (Photo by Kathy Tran)

On the Future of Mot Hai Ba

Three years ago, Krstic opened the second location of Mot Hai Ba in Victory Park in 2020, and though it ultimately shuttered (mainly due to the pandemic), that doesn’t mean there will never be another MHB outpost.

“I always wanted to open three Mot Hai Bas,” Krstic explains. The inspiration came, in part, from the restaurant’s name (một hai ba is Vietnamese for one two three), and Krstic also wants to experiment. His vision would be to give each spot its own look and dishes, while keeping the ingredients consistent across all restaurants.

“I watched a lot of Iron Chef when I was a young cook,” he says. “I always wanted to try many different things.”

 

Mot Hai Ba
Mot Hai Ba’s Bánh Bao buns are a must-try. (Photo by Kathy Tran)

7 Must-Order Dishes at Mot Hai Ba

Prime reservations at Mot Hai Ba are still a bit tough to come by on Open Table, but should you snag a table at the intimate neighborhood spot, the following options are guaranteed hits.

Bánh Bao Steamed Buns

Always order these delicious, actually pretty large, pillows of steamed goodness when dining at Mot Hai Ba. Filled with a braised brisket that falls apart in your mouth, the buns are also topped with shallot marmalade and crispy shallots for a flavorful starter.

Tuna & Cucumber

This dish is a surprisingly delightful take on the classic yellowfin tuna with cucumber iteration. Several bites of tuna and crunchy cucumber are slathered in a dressing of ginger, garlic, lime leaf, lime juice, and herbs. Opt for this if you’re looking for a light, but a tasty appetizer.

Garlic Noodles

The garlic noodles that the server boasted at the beginning of dinner lived up to the hype. Just try them.

Thai One On Cocktail

This refreshing rum-based cocktail is mixed with green chartreuse, matcha, a coconut rinse, and Thai basil.

Vietnamese Chicken Curry

For entrees, this dish is an inventive take on the classic chicken curry. It’s a delicious combination of crispy skin chicken ballotine, rice, and roasted beet slaw.

Seasonal Roasted Halibut

A seasonal menu item, don’t miss the roasted halibut that is currently featured at the restaurant. The white fish is served with spaetzle (German egg noodles) crisped in cinnamon beef tallow with brown butter vinaigrette and Texas citrus.

Matcha Tiramisu

This unique dessert is also something you can’t dine at Mot Hai Ba without trying. A combination of Matcha Mascarpone sabayon, cold brew, and cocoa lady fingers, this treat is the perfect way to end a meal.

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