A First Look at Pillar — Chef Peja Krstic’s New American Bistro in the Former Boulevardier Space in Bishop Arts
Shabby Chic Design and Elevated Southern Dishes
BY Megan Ziots // 11.25.24New modern American bistro, Pillar, will feature classic Southern dishes with a twist like Nashville hot oysters. (Courtesy)
A tiny, unassuming Vietnamese fusion restaurant in Dallas’ Lakewood neighborhood, Mot Hai Ba recently celebrated its 11th anniversary. Earlier this month, the first Michelin Guide in Texas named it a Bib Gourmand restaurant— officially gaining the international recognition it deserves. Now, Chef Peja Krstic is gearing up to open his second Dallas restaurant, Pillar, in the former Boulevardier space in Bishop Arts.
Since we last spoke with Krstic in 2023, he’s been in search of another restaurant space. Earlier this year, the chef almost gave up on finding an affordable spot when his wife informed him that Boulevardier (one of Dallas’ best French restaurants for 12 years and one of the couple’s go-to spots) was closing.
“I always loved that space,” Krstic tells PaperCity. Understandably, Krstic felt doubtful that the spot would still be available when he first called Boulevardier co-owner Brooks Anderson. The area has seen a major influx of new restaurant openings (and more) in the last year. But it seems like things were meant to be when he was told that the space was his.
The Inspiration Behind Pillar
Similar to Mot Hai Ba, Krstic says that Pillar is “from the soul.” “It’s cozy, it’s vintage, and there’s a good positive energy,” he says. Coincidentally, he tells us, both of his restaurants are housed in 100-year-old buildings, feature exposed brick, and have a tree centered in the middle of the outdoor patios.
Ever since visiting Ernest Hemingway’s house in Key West, Florida, Krstic says that he wanted to name a restaurant after the famous writer’s fishing boat, Pilar — translated from Spanish to “pillar.”
“I thought I would open a seafood restaurant,” he says. “But for Pillar, I wanted to focus more on other things.” Of course, there will still be some seafood on the menu, as he says it’s his favorite.
Pillar will be a modern American bistro with global influences. Once Boulevardier left, Krstic noted a need for a new neighborhood restaurant in Bishop Arts. At both Mot Hai Ba and the new spot, community is an important, well, pillar.
“Boulevardier was a place that people from different neighborhoods traveled to, like me and my wife,” he says. And that’s also what he wants this new spot to be — a pillar in the community. “I want to stay humble with the name, though,” he says.
The Menu
Krstic brought in former Mot Hai Ba chefs Logan Johnson and Aaron Courtney to lead the Pillar kitchen. “We’re reimagining the classics,” he says. “It’s Southern food with undertones of other cuisines.”
A few highlights of the menu include a fried Nashville hot oyster, buttermilk fried chicken, a brisket meat pie, a duck, leek, & bacon pie, lamb Tortelli, Southern shrimp salad, a tuna burger that Krstic brought back from his days at The Standard Pour, and a “Popeyes-inspired” fried chicken sandwich.
Krstic describes Pillar’s dishes as homey but elegant in the way that they are served. He also can’t seem to get away from the Asian flavors that Mot Hai Ba is known for. There are several menu items at Pillar that he’ll be adding kimchi to.
The new spot will feature simple ingredients that Krstic finds underutilized. “We want to showcase what you can create for less money without being pretentious,” he says. This is the strategy that Mot Hai Ba was just named Bib Gourmand for — a restaurant that offers “exceptionally good food at moderate prices.”
Chef Diana Zamora (formerly of José and owner of Nena Postreria) is Pillar’s pastry chef. They’ll be making sandwich buns with potato and duck fat, milk bread, and other creative baked goods and desserts.
The Design
Designed by Krstic’s wife, Silvana, he describes the remodeled Boulevardier space as “shabby chic” and “inspired by the coziness of Gramercy Tavern in New York.” “It’s old-world Europe mixed with American bistro,” he says.
The former Boulevardier space is brighter and feels more spacious. Krstic knocked out the large liquor display that traveled up to the ceiling in the middle of the U-shaped bar. Bottles will go on floating shelves along the window instead. The bottom of the bar has been repainted bright red (common in French bistros, Krstic says), and a clean, white bar top has been added.
Wallpaper (a collaboration with Peg Norriss called “Bleeding Hearts”) and booth upholstery (a green check pattern) were sourced from Schumacher. There’s also a sleek new wine cellar that you’ll find at the end of the hall going to the restrooms. The ceiling has been replaced with dark wood, and the outdoor patio has been repainted with a charcoal hue.
Michelin Expectations
As for the expectations that Michelin recognition has set up for Mot Hai Ba and Pillar, Krstic says that he feels the pressure, but it won’t change how he does things. He’ll continue to train young chefs and focus on his team.
“I’ve achieved success when everyone that works for me becomes better than me,” he says.
Pillar is set to have its soft opening “sometime after Thanksgiving,” so keep an eye out at 408 N. Bishop Avenue, Suite 108, and the website.