Ben Berg’s Newest Houston Restaurant Is An Authentic Italian Wonder With Master Chef Clout — Tavola Brings a Whole New World

Restauranteur Ben Berg is on a roll. After a flurry of glittering openings in 2023 (with eight more expected in 2024), the CEO and founder of the Berg Hospitality Group has partnered with The Bastion Collection, operators of Le Jardinier at the Museum of Fine Art Houston, to reimagine the former French restaurant called La Table on Post Oak Boulevard. Nothing has been lost in translation as La Table has been reimagined as Tavola (Italian for table).

Poised on the lower level of this two-story building (word is that a new French restaurant, as of yet unrevealed, will open above it sometime this year), Tavola bills itself as an upscale Italian restaurant with Milanese executive chef Luca Di Benedetto, formerly of the Giorgio Armani Group and Nobu Milano, stationed behind the range.

The intimate space, which seats just 118 diners, was designed in collaboration with the aforementioned operators, as well as Gail McCleese of Sensitori. The inviting dining room is styled in shades of apricot and golden tones of rose with warm blonde woods that meet ripped marble wainscotting. While sunny afternoons invite dining in the glass-walled seating area adjacent to the main dining room replete with vibrant green striped covered cane back chairs. In addition to the Armani-designed wall coverings, you’ll find a burl wood Michelangelo mosaic and a delicate mesh curtain created by the handbag house Whiting & Davis, known for its chain mail metal mesh purses.

Chef Benedetto is a protégé of the esteemed, award-winning Italian chef Gualtiero Marchesi. Considered by many to be the father of modern Italian cooking, Marchesi refined the idea of “total cuisine” where each pristine ingredient plays a vital role in a dish, and its presentation (often quite artful) is as essential to its enjoyment of the dish as the simple quality elements it is composed of.

Taking a page from his mentor, Benedetto uses ingredients integral to the authenticity of the cuisine that are dutifully imported. This includes everything from dried pastas, cured meats, flours and olive oils to the half wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano displayed under a gleaming Christofle silver guéridon.

The affable general manager Valerio Lombardozzi who once called La Table home, is back overseeing the seasoned service staff at Tavola. Dining after dark, I would recommend you start with the warm soft loaf of focaccia ($14) risen a lucky seven times before it’s studded with caramelized onions and cherry tomatoes, accompanied by an olive spread. Oyster Rockefeller, move over. There’s a new oyster classic in Houston’s midst — Tavola’s Oyster Carbonara ($24). A half dozen oysters are topped with the rich four-ingredient sauce made with eggs, black pepper, pecorino Romano and lardons of cured pork.

Pair it with a negroni or spritz cocktail. There are four varieties of each including the effervescent Fiore Mio, made with elderflower liqueur, basil eau de vie and prosecco ($16). Tavola’s wine list sees a majority of bottles from Italy with thoughtful additions from France and the United States.

On the lighter side, the avocado and cucumber salad ($16. with crab added running $15 more) is tossed in a sherry vinaigrette with red onion and Espelette peppers. Meanwhile, Tavola’s grilled octopus ($29) is roasted and served upon a smoked Yukon gold puree with sweet and sour peppers.

Benedetto’s pastas are playful compositions, perfectly portioned and elegantly plated. Don’t miss his clever (and delectable) take on the Roman classic, cacio e pepe ($32) which here takes the form of handmade, pillowy soft agnolotti. Each diminutive bite is filled with the creamy, peppery Romano cheese sauce and sits atop a puree of smoked artichoke, sprinkled with ribbons of those fried artichoke leaves. The seven-layer lasagnetta Bolognese — with bechamel, a ragu of beef brisket, pancetta and pork butt — ($28) is artfully presented under a sheath of tomato sauce with squiggles of bechamel atop it.

Secondi courses include Ligurian-style branzino filets ($38) perched atop a shallow pool of basil pesto with a scattering of potatoes, cherry tomatoes, olives and pine nuts. The veal Milanese is a mighty chop that is breaded and pan fried, then topped with a lemon aioli and a bouquet of dressed arugula ($58).

End things on a sweet note with tartufo nero ($14), a chilly orb of vanilla and dark chocolate ice creams combined with a liquid chocolate center and rolled-in chocolate sprinkles. Cannoli fans should try the deconstructed version created with cannoli shell “chips.” Designed to serve two (or more), the chip and dip-inspired dessert is accompanied by a trio of ricotta-based fillings, an orange-scented version studded with candied orange peel, a chocolate version and pistachio too ($24).

Yes, Tavola is all about the extra.

Tavola is located at 1800 Post Oak Boulevard, Suite 100. It is open Mondays through Thursdays from 11 am to 10 pm, Fridays and Saturdays from 11 am to 11 pm and Sundays from 11 am to 9 pm.