When restaurants (or good home cooks) use fresh corn to make soup or sauce, cooks make sure they extract all of the “milk” from the cob. You’ve got to use the back side of a knife’s blade (I’ve also used a spoon) and scrape along the cob until all of the liquid is in your bowl. The corn milk is too beautiful to waste.
This week I visited Tony’s and ordered the restaurant’s business express lunch (which, by the way, is a bargain at $25 for two courses). I opted for the soup of the day as my first course, and that soup was sublime. Summer corn – and it tasted as if it had been shucked 20 minutes before it arrived at the table – diced potatoes, a bit of diced ham, some onion, and cream and olive oil. Great olive oil, whose flavor and acidity were wonderful counterpoints to the dish’s richness.
It was a large bowl, and I would not have minded if it had been even larger. I know it is summer, and this soup was not a chilled one, but never mind. You would not care, because it is that good.
It was soup du jour, so I do not know if it will be available on a regular basis, but why not phone Tony’s and ask?
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