Dallas’ Most-Anticipated New Restaurant is a Major Tease: Wild Opening Party Brings Glittering Gold, But the Food Stays Shrouded in Mystique

In the case of tony new Dallas restaurant Bullion, all that glitters truly is gold.

Michelin-starred executive chef Bruno Davaillon‘s long-awaited fine-dining establishment was at last revealed to throngs of VIPs in the most opulent fashion: Acrobats in custom shimmery gold leotards contorted in billowing white sheets above guests; girls in navy-and-gold brocade bustiers and poofy tulle skirts served mini desserts atop lucite trays; and a dazzling display of fireworks illuminated the sky to the tune of clinking champagne toasts to Davaillon’s new enterprise.

Designed by Martin Brudnizki Design Studio, Bullion anchors 400 Record, the freshly revamped tower first known as the Belo Building when it debuted in the ’80s. Under their newly formed real-estate company Labora Group, the Hartland-Mackie family — helmed by Thomas Hartland-Mackie, president and CEO of Dallas-based City Electric Supply — bought the building in 2014 and promptly gave it a glitzy makeover.

In addition to Davaillon’s French brasserie, 400 Record features 17 stories of office space (CES headquarters included), a state-of-the-art fitness center, tenant lounges, and numerous works of contemporary art by Daniel Arsham, Kathryn Andrews, Alex Israel, Carol Bove, and Jean-Michel Othoniel.

But back to the glittering affair… On a covered outdoor stage emblazoned with the Bullion logo and cast in a golden light from sparkling chandeliers, the Georgia Bridgwater Orchestra delivered rousing renditions of classics old and new.

Though tables of charcuterie, desserts, and an oyster bar were stationed throughout the crowds, there was nary the slightest preview of Davaillon’s eagerly anticipated cuisine, which most people certainly expected.

Like its epicurean maestro, Bullion’s menu will be decidedly French when the restaurant officially opens in early November: Expect escargots beignets with green garlic aioli, braised rabbit torte, potted duck confit and foie gras served with passion fruit gelée and grilled sourdough, and dover sole meunière in a warm gribiche sauce.

We imagine the absence of the aforementioned fare française was to maintain a lingering air of suspense surrounding Bullion’s debut, which, after all, we’ve been waiting for since Davaillon departed the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek two years ago. Mission accomplished.

However, we were able to carefully ascend Bullion’s twisted, gilded staircase to sneak a peek at the restaurant’s interiors, where elegant tables were already set with Bernardaud dinnerware, Christofle tableware, and clay pottery from The Citizenry.

While on stage thanking partygoers, a normally reserved Davaillon quipped, “This party is pretty awesome,” thus eliciting thunderous applause from his greatest supporters.

Hartland-Mackie joined him, expressing his wish for 400 Record and its glamorous new culinary venture: “We hope that what we’ve done with the building plays a small part in the incredible momentum that’s happening in Dallas, especially downtown. If we can contribute to that in any small way, we feel very honored.”

Sparkling at Bullion: Thomas and Nasiba Hartland-Mackie, Bruno Davaillon, Georgina Hartland, Kenny Goss, Joyce Goss, Gonzalo Bueno, Taylor Tomasi Hill, Allan and Lynn McBee, Faisal Halum, Don and Barbara Daseke, Bob and Myrna Schlegel, Wanda Gierhart, Dean Fearing, Lisa and Kenny Troutt, Derek and Christen Wilson, Kelli and Gerald Ford, Michael and Shelle Sills, Meghan Looney, and Jimmy and Sue Gragg.