Drinking the Wines of Provence: The Best of France’s Foodie Paradise Brought Home

Provence. Saying that word makes me happy, because I’ve spent some great days and nights there, days and nights that included, of course, some superlative food and wine (not mention landscapes and views). Escargot, lamb, salade niçoise, soup au pistou… merely typing those foods causes my mouth to water.

Today I’m writing about a recent tasting I conducted that was all about Provence, and while I was unable to venture to France, I did make some food to pair with the three wines that took my taste buds to the beloved region.

The wines — two bottles from Côtes de Provence and one Coteaux Varois en Provence AOP — were opened and tasted on the same evening, and I paired them with a variety of cheeses and olives, duck sausage, a bit of basil pesto and bread, and grilled lamb chops.

First up, Domaine de la Sanglière’s Prestige Blanc, made from 100 percent Rolle (Vermentino).

The Domaine de la Sanglière is a perfect apéritif, and is full of citrus and floral loveliness, bouquet- and palate-wise. Pale straw in color, redolent of honeysuckle, a hint of red grapefruit, and a nice touch of vanilla.

The Sanglière sees six months in oak, and it seemed made for the chèvre we served. Its generous, agile mouthfeel proceeds to a crisp finish. Serve this around 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and drink now.

Next up, the 2015 L’Oratoire from Domaine Saint Andrieu (AOP Coteaux Varois en Provence), which is made of 51 percent Syrah and 49 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. If you are fond of spicy notes, then you’ll want to get a bottle of this wine.

The soils from which this one comes are dominated by clay and limestone. A mild and wet spring, followed by a hot and dry summer, led up to a September 2015 harvest.

The duck sausage we paired with the L’Oratoire was an inspired choice; the earthiness of the duck was lifted by the spicy richness of the wine, and the flavors of both were enhanced. This wine is drinking well now, and I don’t recommend cellaring this vintage. Open today.

Domaine Saint Andrieu is certified to be High Environmental Value by the French Ministry of Agriculture and Food, so if that is something on which you place value (and we all should), that’s another reason to try a bottle. According to French guidelines, “HEV encompasses biodiversity conservation, plant protection strategy, managed fertilizer use and water resource management. It seeks to identify and promote particularly environmentally friendly practices applied by farmers and winegrowers.

“The certification ensures that the factors for biodiversity, such as hedges, trees, strips of grass, flowers and insects, is widespread throughout the vineyard and that the stress applied to the environment through farming practices is kept to a minimum.”

Finally, we come to the 2014 La Bravade from Chevalier Torpez (AOP Côtes de Provence). It was born for the lamb chops we grilled (pan-seared with nothing but salt, olive oil, garlic, and a touch of butter). This wine is 50 percent Grenache, 20 percent Syrah, 15 percent Carignan, and 15 percent Mourvèdre. In the glass, the La Bravade is deep cherry in color, nearly black. Aromas of cherry and other dark stone fruit dominate, with an undercurrent of raisin and a hint of cinnamon. 

Like kirsch? Then this wine will be on your “keeper” list, because that profile is remarkably evident on the palate. Mouthfeel here is rich and satisfying, and the tannins are supple at the finish. This vintage is reaching its peak, so drink now.

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